Pen Operated Switches

Several people have asked me about the pen operated turnout controls. I know it was in one of the magazines, but I never looked at what was suggested there and made my own setup. (This was done for Atlas Code 55 turnouts and has not been tried on other types or codes.)

It starts with Bic Click type pens. I found some on sale at Office Depot.

You would think they were everywhere, but I tried half a dozen stores before finally finding them there.

Take the pens and pull them apart enough so that you can clip the end off, and while you're at it, cut the pocket clip off. I use rail nippers, then file the barrel smooth where the clip was. Reassemble the pen. I used the whole pen. There was some thought about replacing the ink cartridge, but I decided to take a chance.

You will also need a European-style terminal strip. I got a 12 position one from Radio Shack for $2 something. You'll have to cut the plastic off the terminals joiners. I used a Dremel cutting wheel to make a cut across the back of each, then cut the plastic away with my rail nippers and pulled the connector sleeves out with some regular pliers.

You will need to figure out where to drill the mounting hole for the pen depending on your benchwork. I used 1 x 4s for the face and had a plywood top in the staging yard where I was mounting mine.

So, I drilled as close to the edge as I could. I found a 1" dia. counterbore bit at Lowes for $8 or $9. It was worth every cent because the first time I tried using a plain wood boring bit and it made a mess of the hole.

After making the counterbore, I used a 3/8" flat wood boring bit to make the hole for the pen.

Glue the pen in the hole. I used something called Goop. Found it at Lowes and Hobby Lobby. Best stuff ever, but it can be a bit messy. Be careful.

I made a bead around the barrel just below the plunger. Stick the pen thru the faceboard from the backside and just barely let the tip extend past the the faceboard. I made mine stick out 1/8" because I am covering the faceplate with a masonite fascia board.

You can also color code the pens and counterbores if there are several close together. I may add colored targets later.

The last parts you'll need are some 1/8" dia plastic tube, and 16 and 18 ga. floral wire (or similar). I found floral wire precut in 18" lengths and tried it because it was soft enough to bend before breaking the turnout throwbar.

I drilled a 3/8" hole under where the hole is in the throwbar thru the deck and then mounted a thin block of wood under the deck to use as a spacer. I then used the Goop to attach the plastic tube to the spacer cutting about an inch or two short of each end.

I connected the 16 ga wire to the end of the pen with one of the terminal connectors, clipping the other end about even with the thru hole. I used the 18 ga. wire (bent at 90 degrees) up thru the deck into the throwbar. I did have to enlarge the throwbar hole with a 1/16" bit. Connect the 2 wires together with another terminal connector leaving some overlap for adjustment.

Give the Goop 24 hours to dry before adjusting the wire.

Splines and Track On The NS Sub

Another weekend passes with what seems like no progress. After running some errands Saturday morning, I finally got into the layout room around 1:30. Not long after I started I had some visitors that had been to one of the club shows.

After they left, I made a second pour on the Abbott's Creek water. The initial pour was rather brownish and I made this one lighter.

While the matte medium was drying, I took to the table saw cutting 40 or 50 splines which I used to start laying out the NS roadbed.

That was about as far as I got on Saturday. Sunday morning I checked out the now dried Abbott's Creek. Still a little brownish, but as good as I can do for now. I went ahead and mounted the shoreline and poured the finish matte layer. I'll follow later with a gloss layer for a wet look.

Went back to the NS roadbed. I lined and glued about 12 feet of roadbed and realized the best thing for the High Point yard would be plywood and tie that to the spline stringers.

After mounting the plywood, I went back and started soldering and laying track for the dual mains out of Dundee Yard (Danville). I left a #7 turnout for Jamestown and widened the tracks for the future High Point Depot.

The mains have been laid as far as the High Point Yard. I need to double check the sidings needed going into Thomasville and I can go ahead and lay the splines around the back corner heading into the pit opening.

First Run On The WSS/HPT&D

On Friday, Feb 15 at 21:49:32 GMT, the first complete loop was made on the WSS/HPT&D sub of the Central Carolina Southbound.

The trip started at Bill Yard with an SD80MAC and 6 cars. It traveled south thru Lexington, Southmont up the helix by Flat Swamp, then northeast thru Denton where it picked up another 6 cars, to High Point where the loco turned on the Wye and returned to Bill Yard.

There was 1 hopper that went on the ground not once but twice, and was immediately bad ordered. There were no other problems encountered.

Signed
KB, Owner, Superintendant, Yardmaster, Trainmaster, Engineeer, Conductor, Brakeman, Chief Cook, Bottlewasher

Copper Fencing

I bought a copper mesh on sale at Hobby Lobby after Christmas. So, I though I'd try it out. I sprayed it with Miracal Metallic Silver and cut a thin strip. It looks as close to scale as anything else I've seen.

2nd Yard Complete

The second yard has been completed. It will represent Charlotte as one end of the point-to-point.

The other end, Danville, was completed several weeks ago. Both will be ballasted at some point, but I think I'll wait until everything up and running.

First NS Yard Started

Since I made it thru the first yard on the WSS sub, I thought I would start on the NS staging yards. This one represents what will be Danville's Dundee Yard.

Although it bares no resemblance to the real Dundee Yard, it made for a good stage name. the will be an indentical yard on the other end and will be known as Charlotte.

The yard only took 2 evenings and a Sunday to complete even though I was trying to be careful about keeping the tracks parallel and straight.

I made a spacing stick and screwed it down between each rung, applied the glue, removed the spacer and double checked the spacing with a Kato rerailer. The rerailer has 3 sets of grooves on the side and is just right for spacing tracks.

Various Work on the WSS/HPT&D Sub

The Winston Salem Southbound's Bill Yard is almost complete. There is 1 section of the hillside to put scenery on and will be ready for some details.

The whole yard has been ballasted and ground throws installed. Jon has come over and made sure all the turnouts were clean and operating well.

The bottom 2 photos show som work done to the HPT&D area just north of Flat Swamp. Technically inaccurate, I merged the WSS and HPT&D minus High Rock Yard.

Sorry, but even with compression, There just wasn't enough room for it all. The 3rd pic shows my favorite scene thus far. Only visible from the right angle, this would be a really good railfan spot.

The last picture is looking back towards Flat Swamp. The unfinished spot in the foreground is where the Georgia Pacific formaldehyde plant at Healing Springs will go. The 2 plant tracks are already in place and I am trying something new for a chain link fence.